Prophetik autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show for LFW

When you’re greeted by a cape-wearing princess sat atop a white horse outside the venue, you can safely assume that the collection about to be displayed on the catwalk is going to be something special. Designer Jeff Garner built up our expectations with a romantic teaser trailer, a fairy-tale inspired show invite and (of course) the horse – but could the clothes themselves live up to the pre-show spectacle?

In short – yes, they could. Entitled Ruins & Renaissance, the show was dedicated to Garner’s young daughter Veda, who passed away late last year. The show notes poignantly cite the power of art to “capture the lost”, highlighting the importance of recollection in battling the destructive power of time.

Beginning with the ghostly, parasol-wielding figure that appears in the teaser trailer, the show quickly switched to rock ‘n’ roll Renaissance with a live guitar player and a series of richly textured, flowing gowns.

Garner is known for his dedication to sustainable, eco-friendly fashion, and this philosophy came through particularly in the gradient colouring that featured throughout the collection.

Using natural earth and plant-based dyes such as dried indigo leaves, black walnut and marigold, he built a beautifully subtle, organic palette of navy, grey, teal and green. The sumptuous quality of the fabric prove that “sustainable” and “luxurious” need not be mutually exclusive terms, as Garner transforms hemp silk, linen, organic cotton, vintage French lace and reclaimed leather into a multitude of stylish, wistfully fantastic looks.

The sensual gowns were interspersed with men’s riding breeches, and slim-leg trousers paired with frilled shirts and waistcoats. A complex, beautifully-executed collection that really managed to weave a story as the show progressed – a great success for Garner.

Grace Cain
Photos: Erol Birsen