POP PR AW12 Press Day

A treasure trove of the weird and wonderful was on show for AW12 at POP PR’s Press Day. An eclectic mix of rising fashion stars and one grand dame, the sheer creative genius of POP’s clients leaves one dizzy.

Francesca Marotta’s AW12 collection is an almost gothic affair. Inspired by the women of Sicily who have “loved and lost,” the clothes have a dark and mournful, yet hauntingly beautiful quality; the subversive use of feminine shapes and fabrics bring a dainty element to the clothes that is not usually associated with the style. Milko’s stunning Perspex cuffs and crowns designed in conjunction with the collection are sharp contrasts that somehow work perfectly.

Iconic fashion designer and rock queen Pam Hogg, designs custom clothing to order. Her AW12 collection, also presented at London Fashion Week, is quirky, futuristic and brings to mind the Handmaid’s Tale. Staying true to her self-taught brand of outrageous fashion design, the boundary pushing clothing is starkly original. The collection bursts with silver and gold, reds and pinks, varying shades of white and black on leather, lace jumpsuits (Hogg’s signature look) that feature revealing see-through cut-outs and the clever use of banding, that are clearly inspired by the work of Pierre Cardin in the sixties, plus futuristic Dutch maid dresses trimmed with rabbit fur and amazing conical bonnets.

Mosaique’s AW12 shoes are a refreshingly colourful collection to brighten up the dreary winter months. Using traditional shoe design shapes, these shoes will truly mark the wearer out from the crowd with the bright pop colours and prints. 

Fans of kitsch and the unusual, will love Simon Ekrelius’ bags and accessories. Using super soft leather, Ekrelius creates amazingly detailed clutches, iPad cases and supple strapped fingerless gloves. The “cat tail” clutch bag – the tail is detachable – was a particular standout.

Ashley Isham always impresses. The designer, who has dressed Lady Gaga on more than one occasion and now works closely with a member of the singer’s styling team, has created a red carpet worthy AW12 collection; stunning Grecian evening gowns in emeralds and blacks and the perfect jacket to pair with such a dress in bronze leather that is exquisitely decorated with hand-sewn sequins.

Other notable designers on show include Marimodo and Nova Chiu. The stars of Marimodo’s AW12 collections were the burgundy salmon skin trousers with side zips and a jacket and bolero made from goat hair, detailed with plaiting and braiding. Nova Chiu’s AW12 offering was the loudest collection on display. A riot of colour and neon was used in creating intricate patterns that made the clothing and shoes perfect for modern day flower children. The standout design feature was that the insides of each garment is just as original as the outer, making each piece reversible! 

Ian Michael Turner

Photos: Ian Michael Turner & Sara Reverberi