LFW – Phoebe English S/S 2013 collection

Phoebe English portrayed yet another sensational collection for SS13 to the fashion-strong crowd at the Freemasons Hall for London Fashion Week. With fashion blogging phenomenon Susie Bubble sitting pretty in the f-row, the show was set to be a promising one; and it didn’t disappoint.

11 swan-like models glided through the aisles of the historic hall, their slim-line bodies cocooned within rich cotton volumised garments. Inspired by the intimacy of the human body, the models wore pieces that had been spliced together as one, as well as revealing or covering certain aspects of the body such as the hands, the mouth and the back.

A dark and introvert collection for SS13, geometric shapes were key in a completely monochromatic palette. Phoebe English mentioned in her design notes the sense of volume versus surface, drawing reference to the growth and regeneration of life itself. Bell sleeves fell neatly behind t-shirt fronts as well as being ruched back to maintain a structured and constricted essence.

With a focus on design and craftsmanship, English decorated her collection in an understated manner. Bugle and knitted beadings were scattered across the arms and shoulders to enforce the idea of geometric grid structures. A seemingly masculine collection for SS13, yet the use of interlocking fabrics across the chest and back in billowing fabrics gave the designs a feminine nudge.

With this being just her third collection as an official designer, we are already starting to see an ethos that is shaping the Phoebe English brand: black, white and more black! Her previous collections saw her experimenting with leather and latex and causing a stir when being accused of attempting to “sell sex” through fashion. Not wanting to give up her reign of controversy just yet, she has continued to use these influences within her SS13 collection through styling her models using metal mouthpieces by jewellery designer Reid Peppard. Their skin was dusted white and portrayed an almost ethereal glow through the use of event sponsors The Body Shop and their skin care range

When asked how she wants to be seen within the industry, English stated: “I want my label to be known for something that’s reliably and traditionally beautiful, but fresh.” Tick. Tick. And tick again. Mission accomplished, Phoebe.

Mel Jeffrey

Photos: Alessio Paratore

Have a look at Phoebe English’s show here: