As always, Philip Stephens’ Unconditional, which must rank as one of London’s most underrated labels, lived above and beyond the high expectations that one comes ready to expect. A front row packed with London’s nightlife elite: Daniel Lismore, Jodie Harsh (who curated the catwalk music), Princess Julia and Nik Thakkar amongst others, a sure reflection of the underground cult following that Unconditional has garnered.
Presenting both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear for SS13 together in a show that included label favourites Leebo Freeman and Luke Worral, Unconditional returned to London Fashion Week staying true to its particular aesthetic of avant-garde, fashion-forward androgyny. White and metallic layers and heavy use of transparent sheers segued into slim-fit bright colours for tailoring which contrasted against the oversize knits and loose shorts. Neon splashes added into the layered looks aplenty bought suitably spring/summer colour pops.
The designer played with traditional gender conformity roles by throwing into the mix men’s tailoring with half skirts and cut away jackets with metallic gold shoulder pads, and lightened the severe cuts with playful elements of orange denim and royal electric blue.
Look after look, this was a triumph of a show by a designer who is not afraid to take risks. Stephens is a man who adheres to his own aesthetic of restrained yet severe androgyny with a utopian futuristic edge, regardless of what “trend” dictates. Much of the clothing from Unconditional is gender fluent, yet without looking cliché. We’ve seen the future London and we like it. Rise up and embrace it.
Ian Michael Turner Photos: Courtesy of Unconditional
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