NYFW – Mathieu Mirano A/W 2013 collection

Mathieu Mirano has an eye for detail and a flair for showmanship. Walking into the presentation room in Lincoln Center, you immediately see the intense thought put into the design aesthetics of the room; it’s his clothing made art. Mathieu says of his room choices: “I wanted the presentation design to reflect and complement the clothes.”

You would expect clothing so structured in nature to feel contrived and manipulated, but Mirano gives us something that seems just as natural as untouched material. “This collection is all about taking something organic and turning it geometric, without losing the feel of it…” The women’s collection ranges from blush colours that remind you of winter cheeks that have revelled in the cold, to the coal grays and pure blacks that winter collections are often known for. 

Each piece has structured geometric elements, and precariously balances the fine line between unhindered design and manipulated artistry: fur coats with square mesh inserts, fitted leather dresses with chiffon draped flourishes, and boxy jackets that offer great subtle contrasts – it is distinctly menswear in shape, but decidedly feminine in colour.  Even the shoes were triangular in formation, with gold toe detailing highlighting its particular shape.

One of the stand-out pieces of the presentation was his fitted fox-fur jacket paired with a black pencil skirt, which is adorned with something completely out of this world, literally. For beading, Mirano says: “yes, they’re meteorites”. 

Mirano’s most striking portion of the presentation, however, was not his clothing or his design aesthetic, but the models themselves, which ranged the colour spectrum and provided a beautiful diversity to the show. Mirano says of his designs: “It’s luxury, it’s class, it’s about taking the classic pencil skirt and updating it. It’s about seeing the glamour in everything and in every woman”. 

This is Mirano’s third collection, and when asked what is most stand-out for him about this year, he responded: “Just being here, being around my peers and people really appreciating my work…I’m just happy.” 

Mirano’s eye for all-around detail and his ability to beautifully create head-to-toe pieces for the high-fashion minded, modern woman makes him someone to watch out for in the coming years. 

Ashley Mitchell