LFW – Eudon Choi A/W 2013 collection

Eudon Choi’s A/W 2013 collection is called Varykino: if the name sounds Russian to you well, that’s because it is; Varykino is the location of the amazing ice-palace in Dr Zhivago (the designer loves that scene when Yuri and Lara finally meet! and so do we).

The Korean fashion designer presented his latest works on 15^th February at London Fashion Week, in a small square room in Somerset House. 

There are few elements that anticipated the concept behind this work, besides the name itself. The show was opened and accompanied by a band of four elements who play folklorist music.

As soon as the models came out and started walking – almost flowing – among the people packed in the room, the connection with a certain rural Russian style was evident. Although it must be said that Choi definitely improves the concept of rural Russia. 

The designer’s experience in male couture is evident; the models are androgynous but not less feminine. 

Choi plays with juxtaposition of light and dark colours: cream and black, pink and brown, blue and pale blue. But Choi likes to play with fabric as well, and the first outfits modelled showed an art nouveau décor  which stands out from the cloth. The designer went further and also matched wool and leather. 

Another element of the collection is the presence of autumn leaves on jackets and blouses. There is a choice of bright colours, as golden and scarlet stand out. But the contrast is never a clash, but rather a graceful combination. 

But the real protagonist of the show was the bright colours: red and pale blue dresses stood on their own with accessories to link the pieces to the whole collection. The designer put these outfits in the spotlight. 

Hairbands with colourful flowers and headscarves adorned with a floriated fantasy on electric-blue background framed the models’ faces, recalling Matryoshka dolls. 

As the show closed, Choi appeared in the room and thanked the crowd before disappearing backstage again. 

Monica Guerrasio

Photos: Krisztián Pintér