LFW – Headonism Installation hosted by Stephen Jones

Walking into an exhibition in Somerset House with a glass of champagne, the first things The Upcoming saw were feathers, Swarovski crystals, tassels and poppies. Yes, London Fashion Week has finally arrived, and with it a millinery exhibition curated by the world-renowned Stephen Jones, a man who has provided the headwear for models of Dior, Cavalli, Burberry and plenty more. 

Supported by Royal Ascot, the Headonism presentation showcased the newest and most exciting milliners, including Piers Atkinson, whose designs have graced the heads of Kate Moss, Anna Dello Russo and the Princesses of York. Inspired by Little Red Riding Hood, Atkinson’s “D’Hiver” A/W 2013 collection is gothic and daring, with leather, tulle and silk taking centre stage amongst wide-brimmed hats and fedoras. The wide-brimmed “Lady Amhurst” hat is ideal for Ascot, and with its scattered pheasant tail feathers it was made to grab everyone’s attention. However, if you do fancy something more demure, perhaps for an autumn wedding, The Upcoming suggest the “Martina,” a leather band with a poppy bouquet, reminiscent of Star Wars’ Princess Leia. 

However, if you fancy something simple yet sculptural, Moody and Farrell is the brand you want. Handmade in England, their bold designs were stimulated by architecture, 70s string art and the engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Weaving felts, braids and leathers into their headdresses, the wearer is guaranteed sophistication with a touch of Victorian England, perfect for the racecourse that has been part of English tradition for over 100 years. If you wish to view a sample of their collection, either log on to their website or watch the upcoming Paddington Bear film, where Moody and Farrell will be making that iconic hat. 

The third milliner chosen for the exhibition was Aurora Ozma, a self-taught designer whose A/W 2013 collection, entitled Backseam Bullet, is surreal and majestic yet elegant. Containing glitter and white patent leather, the collection features beret-styled and wide-brimmed hats, with Swarovski crystals adorning veils. Incredibly feminine and powerful, a hat from this haute ritualistic designer is definitely necessary for a fashionable party. 

Combining fine woods and linear silhouettes, Emma Yeo’s latest collection has a hint of 1920s glamour. Examining the beauty of moth’s wings, the “Cinerous Pearl” hat is stunning, with a sculptured ivory moth atop contrasting ebony. Just as beautiful is the navy “Riband Wave” headdress, a cross between a fascinator and a hat. However, if you desire something darker and sensual, The Upcoming suggests the “Grey Dagger,” a foreboding moth-shaped design that looks great with seductive lipstick. For an enchanting look into a woodland habitat, Yeo’s collection is the place to be. 

The final milliner in the Headonism exhibition is William Chambers, a Scottish designer whose headdresses have been worn by Roisin Murphy and Ana Matronic. Although his “La Chanteuse” collection is playfully pensive, the colours are deep, with romantic reds, burgundy’s and blacks. Influenced by the Pere Lachaise cemetery in Paris, roses are also popular in Chamber’s A/W designs. For intricate designs, gold strips and soft cloches, William Chambers Millinery is the ideal.

Diandra Todesco

Photos: Ambra Vernuccio