PFW – Kenzo A/W 2013 collection

Drink on arrival: predictable. Goody bag: overdone. How about a Starbucks coffee thermos adorned with the fashion label’s logo on it? This is exactly what Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim decided to hand out to guests upon arrival at their A/W 2013 show in Paris.

Drawing inspiration from Asian temples in countries like Nepal and China, the Kenzo collection was presented at the past French department store La Samaritaine on the Seine (apparently going to be transformed into a hotel). The architectural influence was heavily notable with an array of mixed fabrics from croc, organza and jacquard ribbon to prints and bold hues. A common theme in the collection was the wandering third eye that seemed to be the line’s logo, as it was featured on countless garments and accessories. Wide silhouettes were seen on the runway with kimono styled jackets, big fur ensembles and minis with stiff, broad sleeves.

Metallics stood out as did big shouldered bombers with models reflecting modern-day Asian warriors, wrap skirts, skinny leg trousers, oversized trench style coats and casual sweaters also making an appearance. Again, this season the label has collaborated with Delfina Delettrez and created quirky jewellery to accompany the garments perfectly. Rings and earrings were worn also featuring the same eye in bright indigo.

Set to an M.I.A’s track from her new album, models marched to a suitable tribal-inspired beat. Kenzo has defended its fashion reputation with another show full to the brim with multi-cultural elements that still incorporate current trends and modern-day style.

Kim Pennefather