NYFW – Jenny Packham A/W 2014 collection

London designer Jenny Packham unveiled her autumn/winter 2014 collection on a crisp, cold Tuesday afternoon in New York’s Industria Superstudio, located in the city’s Meatpacking District, just below the Highline.

Packham, who launched her brand in 1988, and whose creations have been worn by Helen Mirren, Cameron Diaz, Angelina Jolie, Kate Winslet and Kate Middleton, found her muse for this season’s collection in Bianca Jagger and the style she embodied in the 1970s.

“I admire women who style themselves with integrity and wit- Bianca was the queen of mindful dressing.”

Bianca’s inspiration was evident in the easy mix of draped silk satins, structured suits, jumpsuits, chic silhouettes and dramatic, statement accessories.

The show began to the tune of Rufus Wainwright’s Oh, What a World. Those in attendance included Louise Roe and Anna Kendrick, who had a front row seat for the catwalk.

Softly elegant, beaded gowns started the show.  They were followed by deeply coloured, wide-legged trousers in flowing satin, which were paired with a boxy cropped sweater shimmering with small crystals. 

A softly tailored jacket, elegant pants and top with jewelled neckline were accessorised with an ostrich feathered clutch, all in white with tints of warm and cool hues. 

A red jumpsuit with a halter back and subtle styling showed its edge with the jewelled cluster below the deep v-neckline, and the oversized cuff bracelets worn with it.

Other fabrics included mesh lace, cashmere with crystal, feather trims and metallic tulle; and a repeating theme was the contrast of smooth and rich textured surfaces for the tops or bottoms.

The show finished with a stunning full-length coat made of preened, delicate feathers. It looked warm and light at the same time, something we remembered as we stepped back out onto Washington Street on this sunny winter day.

Pamela Koehler