Paul Costelloe collection presentation for LFW A/W 2015
Dublin-born Paul Costelloe is one of the most established names in British fashion and following his A/W 2015 collection, Jewels in the Mist, it is clear why. Set in the beautifully lavish Waldorf Hilton Hotel in central London, his bold designs shone as the models set foot on the runway.
Following on from his retro-inspired S/S 2015 line, which saw a more contemporary Costelloe playing with shape and silhouettes, his autumn/winter collection did not disappoint. Mini dresses featured an innovative play on volume and exploration in colour, creating a luxurious and playful range. The use of lavish Italian floral jacquard added depth to the deceptive simplicity of cut whilst tailored empire lines and babydoll dresses with dropped hems illustrated the mastery of his collection.
An abundance of colour lit up the catwalk, including opulent emerald, mulberry, blush rose, sapphire blue and bittersweet orange which represented Costelloe’s unique outlook from the beautiful village of Corinaldo – the home of 15th century painter Raphael and the location where his collection was created.
The designer played on his strengths with the use of sharp tailoring and also took a new direction to reinvent lengths and shapes from various decades in hand-crafted tweeds from Italy. Tailored cropped jackets with padded shoulders and bell sleeves echoed 80s power dressing. Meanwhile, shift dresses, cocoon coats, knee-high socks and backcombed beehives truly established Costelloe’s play on the past.
Costelloe has been a permanent fixture on the catwalk for over 30 years and there’s no sign of this changing anytime soon. His latest collection is a triumph, giving a nod to feminine shapes accentuated by bright colours and daring textures, to flatter and celebrate the female form.
Alexandra Davis
Photos: Rosie Yang
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