Nigel Cabourn collection presentation | LCM S/S 2016

Nigel Cabourn’s presentation at The Army Gym welcomes the small crowd around Covent Garden with loud American country rock and stax music playing. Unexpected as this might seem for a cult British designer whose main focal point is usually about heritage and British history, it makes sense: it sets the tone for that winning combination of roughness and sturdiness meets passion and soul, that is felt in the fabrics, colours and textures of the collection.

Inspired by military sportswear, Cabourn’s S/S 2016 collection aims for a functional fitness design that evokes and provides strength, mobility and endurance. The colour palette follows the concept in a satisfying and truthful way: navy, tan, indigo, vintage oxford and olive are among the prevailing ones.

Beeswax cotton and natural linen dominate the majority of the pieces, which extend well beyond the realm of sportswear, including aircraft jackets, fisherman coats, overalls, wide leg farm pants, cardigans, bombay pants and military chinos.

The classic Cameran jacket inspired by old Everest climbing expeditions is once again present, reaffirming the importance of brave human stories in his work. In this case, paying homage to Atlantic convoys, Cabourn honours not the official history of the men of great rankings in the battle, but the bravery and endeavours of the honest people who endured it.

Every single piece is aligned with this idea in some way, along with Cabourn’s own personal values: either the use of exclusively British suppliers and his charming attention to detail, or the inclusion of some hand-crafted pieces and restored hidden gems from his personal archive.

He may not deliver anything beyond his usual sources of inspiration, but he certainly does not fail to keep providing with practical, real and hard-working items that reflect an ever-present passion for vintage, authenticity and true British heritage. 

Alejandra Arrieta
Photos: Krish Nagari