Berthold collection presentation | LCM S/S 2016

Angular and unambiguous, Berthold’s second collection is a clear exploration of form. Contrasting the label’s previous line, cosiness is replaced with clinical and geometry takes precedent over comfort.

Artist Klara Lidén’s project of 2010 has demonstrated a strong influence on the collection. The Poster Paintings series combine structural study and architectural understanding to develop layering in a way that does not take from the platform of the material. Berthold uses compresses of CMYK cotton to detail the monochrome garments, reflecting the primary coloured layering we see form the foundation for the white finishing in Liden’s work. Contributing texture and definition, this approach creates the detailing on this season’s long shorts and cocooning outerwear for Berthold.

Raimund Berthold invested time into the research of clothing intended to protect and control. With consideration of hospital gowns and morgue protective coveralls, we see the infusion of ideology into the split back shirt coat and the design intention of the strap detailed cuffs present on the wide leg trouser. There is a disconcerting quality to the assemblage; but with lightweight material and delicate detailing juxtaposing the intensive concept, a gentle finish is established.

Berthold held the grasp of androgyny that has reigned since last season’s LC:M, with looks that could transfer between genders. Sheer smocks made of silk organza left little to the imagination whilst summertime’s necessities saw nylon at its lightest and technically developed rainproof polyamide (Austrian-born Berthold knows London weather).

Hanah Draper
Photos: Krish Nagari