A Détacher catwalk show report for NYFW S/S 2016

Pier 59 studios played host to Mona Kowalska’s label A Détacher yesterday, showcasing a collection that perfectly encapsulated the designer’s Soho-esque, indie spirit. The theme of the moment seemed to be structured simplicity. The catwalk saw a range of loose-fitting, boxy silhouettes with pleat-detailing, oversized sleeves and casual, calf-length hemlines.

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Kowalska’s original prints, in muted tones, were also heavily featured, juxtaposed with the occasional splash of color – hot pinks and golden saffron knits and accessories. However, the squarish silhouette, which added a whimsical touch to sleeveless rompers and sophisticated shift dresses, did become slightly repetitive. Two unexpected swimwear looks – a chocolate brown high-waisted bikini and hot pink maillot – added some much needed variety to the runway.

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Standout features of the collection included a long knit sweater and pant combo with matching print, easily among the most wearable pieces, although seemingly heavy for a spring/summer collection. A sleeveless, dark-wash denim jumpsuit also garnered attention, and there were nice surprises to be found in the details – including an eye-catching knit cardigan featuring a cutout designs, and a bright pink sweater with “popcorn” texturing.

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In all, Kowalska played heavily to her base – appealing to the downtown, indie intellectual, who isn’t afraid to experiment.

Aisha Josiah