Manuel Facchini collection presentation for LFW S/S 2016

Hidden just off the main shopping destination of Carnaby Street, the Vinyl Factory is the On/Off venue for London Fashion Week. On/Off has previously given rise to a host of talented designers, from Gareth Pugh to JW Anderson, and with his future-looking collection Histoire D’A(r)mour, Manuel Facchini certainly looks to follow in their footsteps.

A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins, and under the tutorage of the late and great doyenne of fashion Louise Wilson, Facchini flourished as an Italian in an international class of students.  In his own words, Facchini was taught never to be “inspired by fashion in order to create fashion” and his influences for this season highlight the futuristic and forward-looking, innovative nature of his work.

Facchini purposefully posed two unique reference points for the season – gothic and sporty – in order to create an interesting “contamination of opposites”. And it is this juxtaposition of themes that drives Facchini’s pieces, alternating between the symbol of wings and ultra hi-tech sportswear detailing, which sculpts and shapes his space woman.

These themes, in addition to a deliberate rejection of the past, allow for a new-age silhouette, incorporating intricately cut sculptural skirts, racing sportswear tops and a clear nod to the classic American football shape. Technical materials echoed sporty details with mesh fabrics, neoprenes and leathers, bonded to herringbone tweeds and Facchini’s original cyborg prints. 

Fluorescent flashes of neon and hot “framboise” pink, worked brilliantly with the monochrome look, evoking a technological feeling. It was incredible to see the evolution of one of this season’s most exciting, emerging designers, cementing the creation of his own, unique design DNA and proving to the crowd that Manuel Facchini is definitely one to watch.

Victoria Geaney
Photos: Krish Nagari