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Cottweiler collection presentation | LCM A/W 2016

Cottweiler collection presentation | LCM A/W 2016

In an underground car park in Marylebone, people push one another to try and get a good angle of the flawless models highlighted by dramatic lighting and sound effects by Niklas Bildstein Zaar, Richard Whittle and Alois Yang. Flash. Flash. Flash. Welcome to a world where tracksuits are chicer than suits: Cottweiler’s A/W 2016 collection.

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Known for perfectly allying sportswear fabrics and traditional tailoring techniques, the British duo comes back with a fantastic collection set in the most surprising – yet believable – universe.

As an old friend, it’s easy to recognise their signature sporty look. Clean lines; strong silhouettes; a neutral palette of beige, light grey, dark blue and black. Although a bit darker than their two previous collections led by whites and pale blues, Cottweiler is faithful to its style.

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In the agricultural post-civilised society depicted, the outfit is functional and has to play different parts: it’s half-warm, half-waterproof; it’s comfortable. Thermal, moisture-wicking midlayers and bi-material pants and coats are the star elements of the presentation.

It seems simple, but in the details, the collection is quite the opposite.

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Faintly yet strikingly, the shell and plastic fabrics absorb the light in a specific way that gives us a second set of colours to admire. The collection is subtly structural in its cut, with the layering of different necklines, fabrics and heights; and in its presentation, with half tucked-in jackets or strap-like belts redefining the silhouette.

With the wheat as a discrete icon and only ornament – worn as a necklace, packed in a backpack, or embroidered in matching blacks on a jacket and sweater–- the shy accessories are practical. A black cap, mittens and gloves, a chavy man-bag hidden under a bicolour jacket: nothing’s left to chance.

Margot Noel
Photos: Sanjeewa Dias

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