Tony Ward catwalk show report | Haute Couture S/S 2016

Lebanese designer Tony Ward’s spring Couture show presents a beautiful tribute to the movement of the sky and smoke. Through flowing fabrics, cascading beadwork and intricate embroidery, he experiments with a graceful, floating silhouette and the interplay between light and dark.

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The first half of Ward’s show demonstrates the progression of colour, from white through to delicate sky and cornflower blues, via dove and stone greys, and perfumed lilacs, eventually culminating in starkly contrasting black and white. This chiaroscuro is the turning point in the show, representing the moment when air turns to smoke, with inky blacks creeping up floor-length dresses, merging with the intricate white beadwork.

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However, these gowns stick out against those at the beginning, as instead of the colours delicately blending, a dynamic contrast is key. Ward not only presents us a woman whose beauty is delicate and graceful, but also that of a menacing femme fatale. He also does not shy away from the headscarf, effortlessly incorporating hoods into two of his pieces, most likely with his middle-eastern clientele in mind.

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This collection shows a gradual evolution of colour, but retains the same key stylistic elements: floating, translucent organza, embroidered jacquard, and beadwork to add depth and detail.

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The hair also mimics the wispy theme, with a single curl tumbling down the back of each model’s head, like a ringlet of smoke trailing behind. This is a study in movement, gradually blending colours and delicately crafted detail. Ward’s latest celebration of femininity is ethereal, beautifully draped and pure fantasy.

Catherine Phipps

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