Desigual autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show for NYFW

Despite an unforgivingly bitter Wednesday, the raised platformer seating of a recently erected New York Fashion Week pavilion filled up quickly at the Skylight at Moynihan Station. Dedicated fashionistas from every direction braved the below-freezing winds in anticipation of Desigual’s autumn/winter 2016 runway show, untitled, but heavily inspired by the concept of metropolis. The show’s description centers around the theme of the great cities of the ancient world, taking inspiration from Samarkand and the silk route, Alexandria as an ancient guardian of knowledge, and Istanbul, the commercial center between the Asia and the Mediterranean. The coalescence between East and West, ancient and modern, couture and pret-a-porter was a mission that was mastered with bold color, pattern, and a unique mélange of fabrics.

An abstract city skyline sits at the head of the runway. The models emerged in succession, stomping in rhythm to the accompanying runway music, which interjected with lyrics like “empire” and “top of the rock” without a doubt purposefully chosen to convey the concept of cities and urban chic style.

The ready-to-wear accessibility of this collection was a key highlight, displaying intricate designs and rich warm hues manifested in mix-and-match separates that could easily be seen walking down the streets of New York, Moscow or Turkey. The cohesive blending established over the entirety of the collection was peppered with pieces with more specific references. Luxurious brocade coats and floral turtlenecks took one to think of the Renaissance Mediterranean period. Middle-eastern flair was nuanced with repeating geometric patterns and casually draped light wool skirts. Miniskirts paired with dramatic cable-knit overcoats and skinny pants coupled with funky page boy caps utilized Japanese silk designs to bring elements of the far east. Russian Kokoshnik-inspired turbans and richly embroidered cape coats firmly established the philosophy of the collection.

With each metropolis abstracted into fabric and equally well-represented, the collection establish a surprising cohesiveness despite its eclectic individual pieces. Faux fur outerwear, floral chiffon tops, Indian-embellished denim skirts, and gasp-inducing drape-knit coats were brought together in this collection with youthful flair.

The unique techniques used in this collection brought together not only a diverse array of fabrics and styles, but a unified global theme.

Alex Zarlengo
Photos: Adnan Mohamedy