James Kelly autumn/winter 2016 collection presentation | LFW

With an approach based on emotion and instinct, James Kelly brings yet another collection to LFW that deconstructs convention and builds on a foundation that evokes awareness of sensation.

In keeping with his previous collections, Kelly chose a creative muse for his new line: the artwork of Francis Bacon. Distorting traditional tailoring, Kelly combined sports jackets into classic outerwear pieces, developing a textural embrace between nylon and wool. Manipulated and unfinished seams span across the collection, with garments infused together to form full pieces.

Dismissing gender conventions, this season’s presentation created a hazy experience for the audience. With male and female models freely placed in a scene similar to Bacon’s besmirched hotel room, the androgynous line was viewed with a sense of voyeurism. Lethargic music echoing, the models touched each other in a languid yet erotic quality, creating a discomforting ambiance in Freemasons’ Hall.

James Kelly’s A/W 2016 seems to have matured from his recent collections feeling darker, starker and less delicate. There is a true consistency to his work which is impressive for such an emerging designer.

Hanah Draper
Photos: Erol Birsen