Peter Jensen autumn/winter 2016 collection presentation for LFW

She was a muse almost 100 years ago for avant-garde artists such as Man Ray and Constantin Brâncuși and this season the iconic Peggy Guggenheim also provides the inspiration for Peter Jensen’s eclectic autumn/winter 2016 collection. Shrouded in legends of 1,000 lovers and a millionaire father who died on the Titanic whilst smoking a cigar, it is easy to see why the bohemian figure, who amassed one of the best-loved art collections in the world, is so fascinating to the designer.

In 24 looks, Jensen sets off on a modern interpretation of Guggenheim’s personal style, as well as her extensive collection of modern art. In his hands, so-called “anorak” and “smock” shapes are given new life, with frilled detailing and spandex lace offsetting fishnet tights and Converse trainers.

The influence of Guggenheim’s contemporary, the artist Alexander Calder, also plays a big part in Jensen’s collection, with primary-coloured, geometric appliqués covering sweatshirts and wool-crêpe dresses. The statement gold and silver earrings (created by Becca Hulbert) and worn by the models also echo Calder’s mobiles, whilst the embroidered “fish-rabbit” motif echoes the bed-head that Calder designed for Guggenheim.

However, it is the image of Guggenheim in old age, surrounded by the beloved dogs with which she is buried, that really resonated with Jensen (whose own puppy was playing around the show space). Her pets are referenced in the bold graphic prints that characterise striking cotton voile shirts and viscose jersey pants.

Elsewhere, her eclectic-chic style was reflected in the leopard print faux fur, or in the unexpected touches of decadence – most notably a classic cable knit that sparkled with sequins.

The show notes read “why sacrifice zest for practicality” – a philosophy of which Guggenheim herself would have surely approved. A beautifully creative, perfectly crafted set of clothes.

Grace Cain
Photos: Courtesy of Peter Jensen