Fashion DNA autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show for LFW

Organised by the British Council, Fashion DNA is a mentorship programme for emerging Pakistani designers. The aim of the scheme is to help these talented people to begin building their brand, opening up the creative relationship between the fashion industries of Britain and Pakistan.

The highlight of this intensive year of training and showcases is the presentation of a capsule collection from each designer, which is what we saw today at Fashion Scout in London.

Three designers – Kamia Rokni, Warda Saleem and Zaheer Abbas – showed three very different collections, each offering a taste of the styles and inspirations that characterise the distinct brands.

Designer Kamia Rokni offered a decadent aesthetic with opulently patterned jacquards and a jewelled, metallic colour palette. Neatly cut, boxy jackets were worn over classic white blouses, their surface decoration matching the one on the trousers or skirt with which they were paired. Rokni is inspired by the idea of creating modern clothes that incorporate elements of his Pakistani heritage, and in this collection both of these ideas come through in the beautiful patterns and colours.

Meanwhile, Wardha Saleem also turned to patterns to make an impact, covering wide-legged trousers or sixties-style shift dresses in psychedelic monochrome swirls or abstract floral designs. Outerwear was a particular highlight, with the vibrant palette translating itself into well-tailored coats and jackets.

Lastly, we saw the capsule collection of Zaheer Abbas, which was focused around a stunning print of birds and jungle foliage in a muted colour palette. This looked particularly striking on a flowing maxi dress, but also worked well in the form of a tie-neck blouse paired with green high-waisted trousers.

An exciting, dynamic set of clothes; it will be interesting to see what these three designers do over the next few seasons.

Grace Cain
Photos: Olesya Asanova