Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show for LFW

Vivienne Westwood showcased an epic collection emphasising relaxed glamour, sensuality and a rather sophisticated feeling for autumn/winter 2016.  Held at the Royal College of Surgeons, the venue accentuated the deconstructed undertones of Westwood’s woman, with precision splicing and splits in abundance.  Ever concerned with the intelligence and theoretical side of fashion, Westwood established her political agenda advocating her climate revolution ideology with the first look sporting “Intellectuals Unite” badge – both the title and the message of the collection.

Long, sinuous silk dresses, with glaucous blue silk jackets draped casually and coolly over the shoulder.  Beiges and military green, signature lowered bustlines and asymmetric buttons; pointed brogues in bright red and black.  Menswear elements peered out from slashed, tailored womenswear with skirts splitting completely to one side to reveal casual and ultra short boy shorts and flashes of bright orange and hot pink.  These were set against pastel rubix cube prints in scarf silks draped over pleated beige wide-fit culottes and bombers.  Collaged art patterns on kimono coats and printed baggy sports pants with drawstrings at waist, colours contrasting at the fronts and backs provided a sportier angle to the season. Colours were eclectic, from brunswick to chartreuse greens, mauves, red tartan, hot pink and shimmering blacks on plastic and silver metallic chiffons and netting.

Charlie XCX watched from the front row, as the models marched past in leg warmers and red and gold heart heels.  Narrow fit drainpipe trousers showing a return to perhaps even a nineties silhouette.  A tartan blazer suit continued the concept of the undone, with one sleeve uncovering part shirt and part bomber details underneath – cut and reconstructed as expertly as a surgeon.  Barely there red tartan belted skirts just covered schoolboy grey shorts and eveningwear showcased grey and metallic silver lace on plastic, as well as a show-stoppingly sculpted dress with layer upon layer of netting and three dimensionally sculpted godets.

Westwood presented perhaps a more demure collection this season, her intellectual muse displaying powerful tailoring and tightly curled up dos, though looks contains elements of the undone and taken apart to upend this slight seriousness.  One outfit combined one part white shirt, one part slashed full-length black dress over mustard drainpipe trousers – literally combining stereotypically masculine and undone femininity.

A doyenne of the fashion industry, Westwood again proved what an intelligent fashion designer she is by expertly bringing together eclectic influences, cleverly layering the body and combining reconstructed elements within her exquisite collection.

Victoria Geaney
Photos:  Krish  Nagari