Antonio Berardi autumn/winter 2016 collection catwalk show for LFW
“A new assertiveness”, the show notes state of this seasons Berardi woman, and indeed it’s hard to imagine feeling anything less than strong and confident in a piece from the designer’s stunning autumn collection.
Playing on the usual tensions and juxtapositions – the masculine and the feminine, the tough and the fragile – Berardi combines contrasting fabrics and textures for a contemporary, romantic finish. In one case, a heavy chain mail vest hangs over an airy Chantilly lace gown, whilst elsewhere lace is treated with rubber or else added to a biker top. Whilst leather lacing reveals the flesh beneath, careful additions of a corset or modesty peplum ensures that nothing is exposed, creating an air of mystery and sensuality.
This theme is also explored through the addition of bondage element, such as buckles and wide leather belts. Tough and heavy, these are balanced by the delicacy of the lace and the slim-fitting sleeves that fit the body like a second skin.
A rich, dark palette centres on black, white, navy and oxblood for a dramatic and vampish effect. Patent buckled leather boots with stiletto heels both emphasise the tall, slim silhouette and evoke a new assertiveness of the powerful Berardi woman. An impossibly stylish, instantly covetable set of clothes.
Grace Cain
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