Christopher Raeburn autumn/winter 2016 collection presentation for LFW
There was a clear theme for designer Christopher Raeburn this season – Merino wool. Produced in collaboration with The Woolmark Company, the entire collection is a celebration of the fabrics’ versatility and sustainability, with every single look incorporating pure or blended Merino wool in some way. As someone who is forever striving to source renewable materials and reappropriate existing clothes, Raeburn’s aim in this collection is to show the functional, but also the aesthetic qualities of the wool.
Another source of inspiration this season is traditional military dress, something which is particularly clear in the wide selection of outerwear available as part of this collection. From hand-embroidered bomber jackets evoking an officer’s frock-coat, to duffle coats and jackets created from repurposed ceremonial tunics, the whole collection blends the functionality of utility-wear with the splendour associated with military costume of the past.
These are clothes designed with layering in mind, with modern touches such as a mesh hoodie or crew neck sweater designed to fit under both light and heavy-weight outerwear pieces. Everywhere you look ornate details such as tassels, badges, epaulettes and statement buttons evoke the military inspiration, whilst the muted colour palette is injected with flashes of colour thanks to the vibrant remade tunics.
Whilst this is a collection infused with history and tradition, Raeburn’s in-depth knowledge of military silhouettes and patterns allows him to translate pieces steeped in heritage into contemporary clothes for the modern customer. A dynamic, beautifully crafted collection which really highlights Raeburn’s dedication to sustainable fashion.
Grace Cain
Photos: Krisztian Pinter
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