Emilio de la Morena’s autumn/winter 2016 collection was shown in Hotel Cafe Royal’sPompadourRoom, which aptly set the scene for the designer’s dramatic offering.
Inspiration was drawn from painter Tamara de Lempicka and the 13thDuchess of Alba, creating a theatrical and aristocratic collection. Powerful themes of dishevelled opulence and 18thcentury Spain were present in a number of elegant off-the-shoulder and column dresses, alongside ruffled gowns. Morena’s strong design identity remained coherent as silhouettes seemed familiar but reworked.
A rich colour palette featured monochrome and jewelled tones that referenced de Lempicka’s work: fuchsia, emerald, saffron and pitch blue. Fabric was primarily lace, including French, Spanish, stretch and appliqué; many of the models were covered from head-to-toe with matching eye masks and hosiery.
Silky material wound tightly around the wearer, corseted bodices and crochet peplums wereundoubtedly intended to enhance the female form.Meanwhile, outwear, in the form of capes and opera gowns, was oversized and produced in matte cashmere, alpaca and faux fur.
Looks were further enhanced by long leather gloves and over-the-knee velvet boots – sultry yet gothic.
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