Beneath a sparkling cloud of fairy lights, model Neelam Gill opened Ashish’s spring 2017 show in a diamante-embellished pale pink tunic-and-trouser combo. It was a richly elaborate, dramatic first look that was to set the tone for a collection that reflected the Delhi-born designer’s love of all things sequined.
As someone who frequently takes inspiration from his own cultural heritage, Ashish’s focus this season was on Bollywood pop culture combined with more traditional elements. Each look was gender fluid, with both male and female models walking the catwalk – some with live snakes wrapped around their necks.
Throughout the show there were rich colours, intricate embroideries and – of course – sequins. Loose-fitting, longline tunics seemed to echo the silhouette of the traditional kurta, whilst sweeping beaded veils evoked a bridal mood. Elsewhere, vibrant tops were finished with sweeping folds of fabric that draped across one shoulder and trailed behind the wearer; Ashish’s reimagining of the traditional sari, perhaps.
Meanwhile, voluminous skirts that flared from the waist made a beautifully ornate statement, whilst paisley-printed shorts were one of the most realistically wearable pieces in this elaborate collection.
A stunning, intelligent display that really showed Ashish Gupta’s virtuosity as a designer.
A stunning, intelligent display that really showed Ashish Gupta’s virtuosity as a designer. 
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