Fyodor Golan spring/summer 2017 collection presentation for LFW

CGI may as well stand for “couture goes interactive”, given the current trajectory of fashion week media. Although the conventional runway is still going strong, increasingly so are computer and projection-based shows – or at least shows supplemented by digital images. 

This was most clear on entering the Fyodor Golan presentation, armed with a huge pair of over-ear headphones and a few press releases on 3D e-commerce platforms. The presentation begins with a projected runway show; on huge screens that line the walls, the FG collection is displayed in digital form on multicoloured avatars. As innovative as this is, the digital runway is blissfully short – the detail is lost on a projected CGI screen and it is difficult to identify the fabric creating the movement to the garments shown on screen. Real-life models soon enter the room, showcasing the pieces in real time. The items themselves sit on quite a spectrum of styles. Beautiful though they are, there was a tangible lack of cohesion to the collection – although perhaps that was the intention. On the one hand, four models stood amongst the crowd in various shades and shapes of denim; ruffle pleats on trousers were joined by oversized sleeveless shirts with unfinished edges and a ruffle skirt reminiscent of Latin dance gowns.

On the other hand, brash colours and metallic fabrics were used, challenging guests’ understanding of how such garments should be made (not unlike how the digital runway challenges our understanding of how such garments should be showcased). A shell suit in mirror-like tesselating fabric was worn with grey knee-high boots, blushing pink clutch perched under a reflective arm. Overall, the collection is confusing – but perhaps purposely so. The use of old school denim in an eccentric way and modern metallics to recreate an 80s staple is emblematic of Fyodor and Golan. We could do with more designers embracing technology in their creative process and should celebrate FG leading the charge.

Katie Dean
Photos: Erol Birsen

For further information about Fyodor Golan visit here. 

 

Photos: Erol Birsen