You can’t help but wonder whether the stark contrast between the softness of Sharon Wauchob’s SS17 collection and the gothic surroundings of Saint Cyprians Church is deliberate. The gentle folds of silk and the fluid movement of her pieces are only emphasised against the backdrop of the angular rood screen, the dimly lit nave is somehow appropriate for garments so delicate it feels that they should be showcased in moderated surroundings. Silk trouser sets play a dominant role. Even when paired with an off-shoulder organza dress, rather than an oversized silk shirt, the trousers lend an androgyny to a look that still retains a soft, fluid movement.Shirts, however, are not abandoned. Often heavily embroidered, they have the look of luxury loungewear; in fact, as hemlines are exaggerated and create floor length silk shirt dresses, so too is this look. Wauchob’s collection is not geared towards indoor wear, though, as demonstrated by the series of lightweight silk trenches that float across the runway. Relaxed and classic, these coats are uncontroversial but undeniably luxurious.
One of the most interesting features of he show was Wauchob’s use of metallics. Foil-effect materials can be handled clumsily in the wrong hands, but it is unsurprising that Wauchob deploys them with experienced, delicate care. Integrated into an outfit as a shirt, alongside pleated silk trousers, or as an asymmetric dress under a waist length jacket, Wauchob counterbalances the boldness of a pleated silver. It is this ability to mix the extremely bold with the extremely delicate that makes Wauchob’s appeal and will maintain it across future seasons. Until she reveals the fabrics she chooses to toy with come AW17, we will be left wondering what her next trick will be.
Katie Dean Photos: Krisztian Pinter
For further information about Sharon Wauchob visit here.
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