Oliver Spencer spring/summer 2017 collection catwalk show for LFW

Oliver Spencer spring/summer 2017 collection catwalk show | LFW

20^th September 2016

Katie Dean

Shot by Krisztian Pinter

Katie Dean Shot by Krisztian Pinter

20 September 2016

One of Oliver Spencer’s key success factors this season was limiting his colour palette whilst using it across a wide range of different fabrics and textures. This choice, a rarity at this London Fashion Week season, made for an infinitely more interesting collection – a skill that self-taught Spencer has learnt cultivating his brand throughout the years.

Leaving aside the conceptual narratives of other designers, Spencer returned to his vision of creating clothes that people can live in, whilst maintaining the highest quality of cut and fabric. The result was a series of menswear staples in the finest English and Italian wools, leather and suede. Burnt reds, midnight blues and earthy ochres were the building blocks of the SS17 collection. The classic Oliver Spencer bomber jacket made a return to the runway in a caramel suede, as did a similar jacket made up of rectangular panels in varying sizes and tones. A fine woollen tank top was also previewed, worn over a high-collared navy shirt and with a matching trilby hat. For Spencer, the dominant theme of SS17 is layering. This is not surprising, given the materials he deployed this season (wool, suede, velvet) – buyers will want the option to add and remove items as the weather changes. Pairing pieces in this way means that many of the different fabrics mentioned above can be mixed within one look – as seen with the linen-striped trousers, worn with a check flannel shirt and a velvet jacket in deep burgundy. The trick to this technique is keeping the tones even, something Spencer appears to have settled before he even sought out fabrics and produced prototype designs. This foresight has served Spencer well. It has kept the collection tight and consistent where other designers’ collections have felt haphazard. For the spring consumer wanting a sophisticated look beyond linen shirts and boat shoes, Oliver Spencer may prove to be the saving grace.