Berthold held a presentation for their autumn/winter 2017 collection for London Fashion Week Men’s at the British Fashion Council. Providing musings on a theme of restriction, the sinister-styled performance was simply entitled Asylum.
Expressionless models aped inpatients walking aimlessly through corridors, with a blocking of colours creating an illusion of indistinguishability between them. Only on closer inspection were varied textures of mohair, felted wool and soft leather visible. Bandages were wrapped around heads, eliminating identity and gender. Legs of trousers were split and sleeves slit open. Billowing jackets contrasted with corset-like body gloves.
Minimalist in fabric and colour choice, models were dressed head-to-toe in heavy black, white or red; the impact of the aesthetic became most apparent when the full cast stood together in final formation. Behind the distressed overall styling lay wearable and understated overcoats, wide-legged trousers and woollen separates. A striking exploration into minimalism.
Hoarding has long been a subject of fascination for storytellers and audiences alike, spawning countless pseudo-docs offering an exploitative peek into the lives of sufferers. Emerging playwright Chloe Lawrence-Taylor is clearly fascinated with the subject, too, but presents a more sympathetic, nuanced view in Personal Values. Stuck (almost literally) in her overstuffed...
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