KTZ took the BFC showspace by storm with their autumn/winter 2017 catwalk show for London Fashion Week Men’s. Amid a tangible amount of hype and seriously high-end crowd, KTZ’s hard edged display didn’t disappoint.
All punk and bondage, this was not fashion for the faint-hearted. To a 1980s German electro-pop beat, a barrage of bindings, straps and laces met the eyes of the audience. A gender fluidity resisted and clashed styling stereotypes, with corsets cinching in above male hips and full bodied skirts billowing over men’s booted legs.
Hooded ponchos, high neck jackets and printed bomber jackets exuded urban aggression. Caps, balaclava-style headwear and boots emphasised a strongly military aesthetic, while corset-style lacing up trouser seams and along sleeves gave a sexualised aspect to the ensembles. Characteristic white detailing on black, and black on black were broken up with khaki and brown camouflage.
Creative director Marjan Pejoski’s dedication to standout design that demands attention and provokes reaction was a clear driving force behind this statement collection, which is simultaneously nostalgic for punk and racing into a boundary-crossing future.
The V&A has, over recent years, honed the blockbuster fashion retrospective into something of a house speciality. Here, the garments, shoes and jewels of the world’s most covetable wardrobes are presented not as accessories to life, but as artefacts of cultural and aesthetic consequence. Last year, the museum paid tribute to two...
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