Michiko Koshino autumn/winter 2017 collection presentation for LFWM

Michiko Koshino brought their autumn/winter collection 2017 presentation to the Institute of Contemporary Art space on the final day of London Fashion Week Men’s.

The designer, from whom the label takes its name, demonstrated the reason for her cult and commercial success. With her long cultural heritage as an influencer of the 90s London club scene, and a reported reputation for innovative and trendsetting pieces amongst the likes of the late David Bowie and Stella McCartney, the season’s range of unisex streetwear was no exception to the brand’s forward-thinking style.

Tattooed, pierced and seriously hard-edged male and female models displayed layered and contrasting, wearable and statement pieces: military influences inspired workwear cuts and prints in nylon and treated cotton; a study of the ancient warrior heritage of the Koshino family name was visible in the bamboo colourings, helmets, and cape-like jackets. Playful inflatable PVC resurged the iconic look of the brand while abstract wool, cutaway thick jersey and hoods were distinctly urban.

Not afraid to break the mould, the visually alternative display made for a refreshing and fascinating celebration of difference and subversion. Like the designer herself, bouncing amongst the viewers in a inflatable skirt, the collection shows a raw energy and imaginative spirit.

Sarah Bradbury
Photos: Erol Birsen