Rinat Brodach autumn/winter 2017 collection catwalk show for NYFW

Amidst a waning snow storm, a quaint gallery space in Manhattan’s meat packing district began to fill with fashionistas. The simple, white surroundings served as a blank canvas for the latest collection from Rinat Brodach. Her autumn/winter collection asserted a “triumph over fear… as a means to alter perception”. And it certainly delivered.

A collection of intricately draped and ornately gathered silhouettes soon appeared, with androgyny and a fearless approach to gender norms close in mind.

Modern fabrics, as well as wool, nylon, neoprene, and cotton/elastic blends gave a futuristic appearance to the incoming garments. Sleek silhouettes and fun new proportions could be noticed immediately. Oversized sleeves, high collars and asymmetrical draping made for an architectural feel while onlookers kept guessing the intended gender of the garments. Gender played no concrete role from one look to the next, with men in skirted shorts and tights, and women in aptly titled “man pants” and “man shirts”.

The shaping of each piece made for a particularly interesting display. Fabric gathered at the hip of a steely woven dress was darted in and folded over repeatedly, to give a whirlpool effect. Necklines were contorted into sculpture-like forms, and jackets were draped and layered for added drama. The geometry of these garments was offset by a simple and cool palette of black, steel, cool blues, punctuated by terracotta. This earthy orange was also referenced in the hairline of each model, each christened with a smear of clay-like make-up.

Simple colours updated with modern stretch fabrics and exaggerated draping made for a cohesive and satisfying collection. Bending the perception of gender through clothing and reshaping the fabric itself was truly a triumphant step in defying convention.

Alex Zarlengo
Photos: Dan and Corina Lecca