Nicole Miller autumn/winter 2017 collection catwalk show for NYFW

The stars aligned for the Nicole Miller runway show at Skylight at Clarkson Square in Manhattan – quite literally. A bevy of noted fashion models, Gigi Gorgeous and her girlfriend-billionaire heiress Nats Getty, a smattering of the Real Housewives of New York and a host of other socialites and “It girls” so uniformly glamorous that their hair extensions and cocktail dresses nearly blurred into one glittery mass. Nicole Miller is known for attracting quite the crowd. Nicole Miller is also known for her more typically upscale and more classic aesthetic. This season however, was to be a mini revolution, or rather, a revolution in punk miniskirts.

The collection, titled Gypsy Grunge, was a distinct departure from Nicole Miller’s usual designs. Rock music blared as smokey-eyed models harkening back to the heroin-chic looks of the 90s stomped down the serpentine catwalk. It was clear that the safety pin was back in full force.

Patches and occult symbols were key elements of the collection, adorning the opening wool reefer coat, as well as denim vets, and stocking caps. Plaid and grunge tartans were reimagined in everything from harem pants to low-slung “boyfriend” tees. And no punk collection would be complete without a series of leather items including handbags, backpacks and of course biker jackets, individually festooned with patchwork and studs. Even tarot cards could be spotted on a number of pieces including mesh gowns, organza dresses and off-shoulder tops.

Asian-inspired elements also made their way into the collection. Rich silk tops in olive and black were emblazoned with falling-dragons made from silk embroidery. Fortune cookies were used as a print on a leather handbag. Silk gowns with dragon detailing were made rough and contemporary by being paired with leather bomber jackets.

The collection closed with elements of fox fur and metallic blended in – of course the final looks being full length silk dresses. However, the grunge-inspired youthful collection was not to be held down in any sense of convention. A roar erupted from back stage as all the models spilled out onto the runway came out in a giant crowd, head-banging and shouting as if they were front row enjoying some unseen rock concert. As they circulated through the aisles of spectators, and the spirit of the collection exuberantly solidified, the wandering band of punk gypsies exited, and the lights went out.

Alex Zarlengo
Photos: Dominique Pettway