Ones to Watch: Joanna Berlin, Krasimira Stoyneva, Orange Culture, Ru autumn/winter 2017 collection catwalk show for LFW

An army of Ziggy Stardusts stormed onto the catwalk, boldly coloured fringing swishing with every step. Krasimira Stoyneva’s breakthrough collection had a glam rock aesthetic with an attitude to match.

Stars were a recurring motif throughout. Either dead-centre on the back of a grey jacket – almost like a bullseye, or printed onto fringed jackets. The imagery almost seemed to synonymous with the Thin White Duke and king of glam rock himself.

Yellow, bubblegum pink and scarlet red were the primary colours of choice, teaming up with the additional black and white. This brought a sense of boldness, brashness and impulsiveness.

But the focus was on the fringing, nevertheless. It was elemental, featuring in at least half of Stoyneva’s designs. A long-sleeved pink and yellow printed blouse was layered underneath a plunging black waistcoat, paired closely with a dramatically sweeping black skirt. It was at first uncertain whether the look was a dress, but the momentary ponder was distracted by a tail of fringing, bouncing brilliantly not as an afterthought, but as a fundamental component.  

Studded eyelets and shaggy haircuts kept the rebellious rock and roll vibes resonating as loud as possible, whilst the occasional oversized backpack gave the collection an edge of teen spirit.

An emergence of wiry embroidery took a surprise turn into flamboyant athleisure with a twist. A particular grey onesie with a severely-pulled drawstring hood, and gaudy dangling multicolour baubles, made for a refreshing and quirky look during Ru’s show.

Emerging from the array of jungle tones of khaki, burnt orange and taupe, dapper velvet suits in emerald and royal purple added a touch of dandy to the Orange Culture show. Fluorescent puffer jackets and knitwear with slognas such as “stay true” brought a certain sense of melancholia to the collection.

The collection seemed to be about emotion. There was something beautifully foreboding and haunting about Joanna Berling’s autumn/winter 2017. Sheer, crumpled and crinkled textures gave it a raw and organic feel. A daring black blazer and lacy lingerie combination made this collection delicate but deadly.

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Erol Birsen

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