Harry Xu autumn/winter 2017 collection catwalk show for LFW

A uniform palette of black, white, and neutral utility-wear tones, combined with loose, relaxed tailoring was the vibe at Harry Xu’s autumn/winter 2017 show. Familiar masculine shapes, silhouettes and styles were modernised and challenged by feminine touches of delicate floral embellishment.

A clean white boxy roll-neck with matching trousers offered a fresh alternative to the loosely tailored suits. Throughout the collection, the trousers were always loose and baggy, creating a fluid movement to every step the model took. A gentle floral motif sprouted every now and then, softening the masculine silhouettes of the pieces they bloomed from; a navy floral waistcoat and a sheer hydrangea-hued shirt brought a refreshing twist to this menswear collection.

On the other hand, a sense of toughness and utility was brought to the models who had utility ropes wrapped over and around their bodies, trailing them as though they were leaving their boyhood behind them (Xu’s inspiration for this collection was young prisoners stepping out of prison for the first time).

A khaki sleeveless polo neck with matching knitted cuffs somehow connoted strength and freedom, whilst the dainty embellishment on pairs of gloves were snowdrop-like, signalling spring and rebirth.

Some models wore no tops underneath their suits, revealing a certain boyishness and detracting from any formality. One olive-brown bomber jacket was cropped, also beckoning a slightly more feminine notion.

A sartorial masterpiece, Xu’s collection represented an introspective social concept that was food for thought.

 Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Amy Smith