Blue pill or red pill? Berthold’s SS18 catwalk show plunged into an alternate Matrix-inspired dimension. Bare-chested men stormed down the catwalk in maxi-length coats and minimal-sized sunglasses channelling our favourite 90s crush: Neo.
Whilst badass Neo gave us our first impressions, it quickly became clear that there is a much deeper meaning to the collection. Referencing child soldiers from Sierra Leone, Uganda, Liberia and Nigeria, Berthold’s garments had a distinct military feel, without the usual overused camouflage print.
Cinched oversized waistbands, doubled-up cuffs and thick epaulets gave garments an awkward contrast against each amazonian model’s proportions, as if the wearer were a child wearing their father’s clothes. Constructed out of crisp waterproof fabric, jackets had matching utilitarian pouches slung over shoulders and tied around waists, ready for battle.
The use of yellow, blue, and red pops of colour in the mostly black collection was Berthold’s way of symbolising the hope and optimism of childhood, and hinted at traditional African costume. The reinvented yellow raincoat is bound to become a wardrobe staple, and the lightweight summer rollnecks are every minimalist’s dream.
This strong and significant ode to utilitarian combat wear is a new take on a tried and tested formula.
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