London Fashion Week Mens welcomes another Chinese menswear brand into the fold, courtesy of GQ China. The SS18 Pronounce collection brought to us by designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou had an otherworldly military feel, set against a war zone soundtrack by Eli Osheyack.
The British-educated designers told press they were “inspired by the mysteries shadows captures from Junichira Tanizaki’s photography series and the print series of Deep Sky, 1984 by James Turrel, this SS18 collection is about the interstice and shades between cloths.” The uniform-like collection was presented in almost solely single blocks of colour. A variety of oversized textures including leather, silk, and woven cottons, hung from models in mauve, yellow, burnt nude, black and white.
Adorned with exaggerated lapels, collars, buttons and belts, the utilitarian Chinese workwear references felt new and exciting. Exploring what the duo name “poetic workwear”, the collection mixed aesthetics from their oriental heritage with modern western menswear. Think Craig Green meets Yohji Yamamoto.
Utilitarian pouches were perfect for military supplies, although the trailing belts might be a little impractical for battle.
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