Christopher Raeburn spring/summer 2018 collection catwalk show for LFWM

“Saftey first!” Declared Christopher Raeburn’s spring/summer 2018 collection. Deconstruction and reconstruction was the theme here, by way of utility rudiments were portrayed through essential outerwear such as parkas and bomber jackets.

It seems that some pieces were made for a rainy day, as sheer tulle anoraks and macs were a lightweight drapery off of the models’ bodies, and were accompanied by black trimmings imprinted with the alliterated slogan “Remade, Reduced, Recycled, Raeburn”. The elevated branding suggested a theme of thoughtful sustainability, translated in this collection through sporty wearables.

Embracing the spirit of adventure and braving a myriad of weather conditions, pieces reflected a certain practicality (forget the term “athleisure”, this was something more genuine and less of a fad). A colour scheme of black and grey were matched with puzzle piece shards of khaki camouflage; the only flash of colour was fluorescent coral, signifying high-visibility safety-wear.

The geometric patchwork was in part due to Raeburn’s collaboration with Italian fashion brand EXKITE, where the designer took pre-flown kites as his collaborator has done and reworked them into his designs.

Whilst the majority of looks were menswear, there was a touch of femininity with the sprinkling of womenswear pieces. One model was head-to-toe decked in electric vermillion, accompanied by a matching bucket hat, another draped in solemn black, resembling a vulnerable black swan.

These occasional sartorial pallet cleansers were still in line with the utilitarian vibe coursing through the collection’s menswear looks, but demonstrated Raeburn’s underpinning of thoughtful detailing and versatility.

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Kimberley Archer