Bora Aksu spring/summer 2018 collection catwalk show for LFW

Intricate beaded crowns and luxurious tulle fabrics nod to Aksu’s regal inspiration for this collection; Lady Mihri Musfik, a Turkish noblewoman but also inspirational artist who gave up a life of affluence to pursue a creative dream. Her influence can also be seen via the appearance of ladylike gloves and “kutnu” (traditional Turkish) fabrics, which reflect her later life as an artist amongst the working class.

Stark bold patterns of polka dots and stripes sit alongside flowing ruffled skirts and delicate heart-shaped overlays on mesh and tulle. Feminine pussy-bow collars and ribbons are brought into the modern day with sporty slip-on sneakers and bomber style silhouettes. The Victoriana influence is strong throughout the collection, which again references the time period of Lady Musfik’s life.

The outstanding piece of the show was the dusty blue sleeveless collared dress, with a full skirt and black patterned organza fabric featuring delicate hearts and swirls, all finished off with a large black silk ribbon. The silhouette was simple, but the contrast in colours and materials was eye-catching and beautiful. A rich colour palette of red, teal, dusty blue, maroon and monochrome reflect affluent beginnings of an influential noblewoman with humble aspirations.

Aksu successfully pays a respectful tribute to a figure he obviously has huge respect for, and in the process creates elegant and yet modern pieces which are suitable for the modern woman. Luxe fabrics are made accessible with contrasting simple patterns, allowing the modern woman to connect to a time of opulence without the monarchical title.

Lizzie Dean
Photos: Simon Deiner