Eudon Choi spring/summer 2018 collection catwalk show for LFW

Korean-born designer Eudon Choi presented his collection “E 1027” at London Fashion Week, which was named for Eileen Gray’s modernist house of the same name on the south-eastern coast of France, from which it drew significant inspiration. This continued Choi’s recent exploration of architectural forms, something that is apparent in the fantastic structure of his pieces, particularly the waved silhouette of some of the sleeves.

Choi’s pieces were understated but meticulously constructed, boasting the clean lines and phenomenal attention to tailoring detail that he learnt during his training in menswear. Necklines were frequently either asymmetrical and off-the-shoulder or the extremely on-trend Bardot, whereas hemlines were low and often with trousers underneath, in accordance with Choi’s usual androgynous but distinctly feminine-leaning style.

The colours were mostly in keeping with a maritime theme, made almost too explicit in one sailor-inspired piece, with many muted blue or grey fabrics, meant to be evocative of open space and ocean breezes. While departures from this theme usually meant black or forest green fabrics, there were some notably fluorescent orange and pink pieces, which perhaps clashed too much with the rest of the collection. A running theme throughout the collection were the long, trailing fabric ties, a feature recognisable from previous Choi designs.

Choi collaborated with New York-based jewellery designer, Chris Habana, for this collection to create designs that drew on the polished chromium and plate glass of Eileen Gray’s multifunctional furniture while merging his emphasis on elegance with Habana’s characteristic boldness. More noticeable, however, were the bags from Choi’s collaboration with lifestyle brand Decke, which included some designs that resembled portable speakers and some extremely covetable neon mesh bags.

Vicky Munro
Photos: Krish Nagari