Christopher Raeburn autumn/winter 2018 collection catwalk show for LFWM

For his AW18 collection, Christopher Raeburn reiterated his core ethos which encompassed environmental consciousness.

This time around, Raeburn took to the ocean for inspiration, focussing on protecting not only the wearer from choppy waters, and also the planet in the process. Sustainable material sourcing and thoughtful design meant the sartorial offering was practical and utilitarian, rather than purely aesthetic.

Outerwear was a prominent feature of the collection, as were the nods to industrial apparel brands. German manufacturer Aquata’s immersion suit was reimagined and cut into a women’s half-zip jacket and men’s overcoat and hooded bomber; in a palette of steely grey and various hues of deep sea blue, they were bright orange statement pieces in smooth yet sturdy neoprene. They weren’t just mere fashion fodder – upon closer inspection, they retained authenticity with functional elements such as emergency whistles and detachable gloves.

Meanwhile, there were insulating puffer jackets, mackintoshes and anoraks in black and yellow. Cargo pants and parkas were given weight with a hefty amount of pockets, but the basics weren’t neglected: core jersey pieces including T-shirts, hoodies and joggers made from organic cotton enhanced the sense of wearability.

Amongst the capsule selection of womenswear looks were cosy winter pieces such as a snow-white roll-neck jumper dress and a sweeping wool duster coat made from Danish military blankets. On the other hand, a navy boilersuit reverted emphasis back to a certain industrial functionality.

Raeburn’s knack for reinvention was shown in part to the alliteration “REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLED, RAEBURN”, which was branded in black strapping and draped here, there, and everywhere. In one instance, it suspended a helicopter emergency pack almost posing as a satchel; yet, in actuality, it was a genuine piece of Royal Air Force kit.

Continuing his tradition of partnering with brands as part of his sustainability efforts, Raeburn debuted a new collaboration with surf brand Finisterre, combining expertise to develop the smartest of fabrics. Previous collaborator Palladium once again worked with Raeburn to produce a range of futuristic Chelsea and lace-up ankle boots practical for almost any environment.

All in all, the designer once again managed to showcase his craft of creating considerate, innovative designs that go beyond the fundamentals of fashion, partnering with a refined selection of manufacturers to bring together his benevolent creative vision

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Kimberley Larmouth