Dorateymur autumn/winter 2018 collection presentation for LFW

It was all about power and control at Dorateymur’s autumn/winter 2018 show. Inspired by the work of American photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe, who pioneered the post-war female gaze, the collection fused elements from Dahl-Wolfe’s Walls Have Ears with iterations of the modern femme fatale. 

The result? Forget the Bond girl; amidst the leather, mystery and sex appeal a character was born: an elegant spy who possesses the qualities of both a well-dressed woman and the allure of an indecipherable disguise. 

For this capsule collection, a series of simple yet elegant dresses and two-piece skirt or trouser suits were, not dissimilar to Dior’s New Look, tailored to emphasise a feminine, hourglass silhouette. Narrow black skirts were calf-length, one smart jacket with architectural detailing was cinched in at the waist, and A-line button-down mini dresses were worn with black turtlenecks and opaque tights. 

While there was a sense of severity, there was also a touch of sex appeal in the occasional use of lace and leather, for example seen in long-sleeved gloves and tube skirt. 

A deliciously dark palette of mostly black and chocolate brown were spiked with PVC ensembles in cyan and scarlet, which consisted of a cropped boxy jacket, matching tapered trousers and pointed court heels. 

The other pop of colour lay in a couple of pairs of glossy knee-high vinyl boots. Their shattered fragments of the three primary colours could have only been a nod to Mondrian’s signature work. 

Accessories served as a key feature, and complemented the simplicity of the outfits effortlessly. Chunky rough-cut Clear Perspex cuffs, rings and earrings, created by American accessories designer Patricia Von Musulin, pointed kitten heels and a selection of small handbags with geometric metal hardware lent an extra touch of contemporary glamour and elegance. 

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Kimberley Larmouth