Jiri Kalfar autumn/winter 2018 collection catwalk show for LFW

Entitled Return of the Queen, it was a fitting entrance for such a regal collection: a musician descended upon the catwalk taking her place behind a double base in one of Jiri Kaplan’s designs. Decadent from beginning to end, Kaplar adorned his models in crown jewel layerings of ruby furs and dazzling sapphire sparkles while intricate jewellery-like gold lace demanded attention.

Kaplar’s adoration for the female form was evident throughout as even more masculine shapes, such as a bright blue sequinned trouser suit, were cut to clench in the waist and show ankle – a traditionally provocative symbol. This motif of the celebration of the female soul continued via the use of delicate, sheer fabrics that emphasised the sensual nature of the body, while maintaining modesty in equal balance.  

Despite each design highlighting the deliciousness of the body, the use of free flowing materials conjured emotions of a free spirit, highlighted especially through one look in particular that consisted of a striped, structured blazer and maxi skirt made of excess cotton that flowed down the catwalk.

Models were occasionally topped with ornate hair bands, bold crowns or contrasting bonnets,  referencing the bohemian nature of Kaplar’s past collections. Delicate laces were used on juxtaposing, innovative pencil skirts and blouses, striking the balance between a queen’s strong and sensual nature. A similar notion was expressed through bold striped wide-leg trousers paired with a blouse captured by a black lace corset and ruffled, Victoriana blouse, capturing the forceful female character expressed currently through the #TimesUp movement.

This collection was not much about the return of an actual queen, but rather capturing the essence of what it is to be a queen.

Ellie Oaten
Photos: Huw Jenkins