On/Off autumn/winter 2018 collection catwalk show for LFW

The buzz was electric in the lead up to the On/Off Presents show, and for good reason. As the closing show of London Fashion Week, spectators were elated for the grand finale: five shortlisted emerging designers showcasing their collections to industry influencers.

Opening the show was Luke Anthony Rooney, who explored the use of texture, colour and surface design in his womenswear collection. Simple yet feminine silhouettes were complimented by shiny brocades, silk with floral prints and gem embellishment. The brightly-spirited pieces considered both construction and technique, with inventive cutting and stitching exemplifying Rooney’s craft. 

Sheer organza co-ords were matched to the models’ skin tones at This is the Uniform. From espresso to cappuccino to cream, the ensembles had the approach of streetwear, as seen in the sweatpants, but were reimagined as ultimately more delicate garments with an emphasis on femininity.

Honest Man’s riotous deconstructed designs were inventively assembled, frayed and rough around the edges. Denim was heavily annotated and doodled with quirky illustrations and notes. An assortment of floral patterns were chaotically chopped and reformed into shirts, trousers and a quilted, padded jacket, with signature textiles from collaborator Liberty London. Using reclaimed clothing and ethically sourced materials, each ensemble was wildly anarchic. 

Design duo Longshaw Ward combined their creative principles into a womenswear line that focussed on detailed craftsmanship and contemporary, forward-thinking femininity. Sheer organza sleeves and layering were given outlined definition at the seams, while soft botanical prints floated over spliced jacquard knits and black patent leather. Ward’s strong jewellery techniques were evident in soft pink bralets, culottes and dresses were embellished with colourful Swarovski cocktail gems, while Longshaw’s more draped, feminine aesthetic was shown in curved hem layering details.

A parade of gigantic wearable structures made costume designer Jack Irving’s flamboyant designs an unforgettable finale. Futurism met the beehives of the 1960s, while sea urchins of the deep sea were magnified and transformed into spiky holographic inflatables. There was a likeness to Madonna’s iconic Gaultier brassiere in Irving’s conical bustiers, but rest assured this collection was creatively unique. A hooded jacket was comprised of 3D studs, while a column dress with iridescent fringing offered a contrastingly simple alternative to the spectacular madness of Irving’s other pieces. 

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Huw Jenkins

On/Off presented their new 2018 collection at BFC Show Space for London Fashion Week. Here are our images from the show.

Photos: Kimberley Larmouth