Teatum Jones autumn/winter 2018 collection catwalk show for LFW

Highly conceptual, thoughtful and considered, Teatum Jones’s autumn/winter 2018 collection, Global Womanhood, was a visual, emotionally charged story detailing the experiences of a number of unique women, the material of which was premiered in a poignant film that played throughout the show. 

These experiences boiled down to three instinctive human emotions: joy, sadness, and hope, which were presented as individual themes in three distinctive chapters. What brought them together were the soft silhouettes, which echoed the fragility of humanity, and a series of feminine and graceful floral and geometric prints. 

The first instalment of the collection – Intense Joy – had us ecstatic and, quite frankly, tickled pink. A colour clash of fuchsia, cerise and ruby red was injected into a fusion of vibrant organza formed into gathered sleeves and asymmetric hemlines. Complementing these vivid warm tones was a more delicate powder blue, which came to life in saccharine blouses and floaty skirts. As one of the label’s signature pieces, the chunky ribbed knit sat off the shoulder, and once again there was an emphasis on the sleeves, which drooped in length and featured cut-outs at the elbows and cuffs. Voluminous magenta satin gave bounce and movement, while relaxed duotone pantsuits were almost fluid-like. 

There was a definite shift of mood in the second part of the collection, indicated by the sudden transition to midnight navy, royal blue and fragile ivory. More delicate than its predecessor, graphic florals were flocked onto pleated and gathered navy organzas, while draping tops were layered beneath geometric jacquards woven with woollen yarns. Sombre, reclusive yet introspective, Intense Sadness was beautifully wintry and a perspectively necessary contrast from Joy. 

A serene balance between the first two extremes of emotions, Hope was brought together in a fresh palette of white tones. Teatum’s trademark jumbo-sized eyelets were seen pierced onto sleeves with intertwining laces of ribbon, while hand-painted florals bloomed on flowing dresses and tops, injecting bursts of burgundy, mustards and dashing reds that peaked underneath cream-coloured turtleneck jumpers.

Fluidity and movement were elevated in the final instalment, signifying an optimistic ending to Teatum Jones’s artistic rollercoaster ride of emotions. 

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Kimberley Larmouth