XU ZHI spring/summer 2019 collection presentation for LFW

In the spectacular surrounds of its mahogany wood setting, there were two distinct chapters to Xu Zhi’s SS19 collection: one imagination rendered in colour, the other in pure white. The two concepts linked to one overarching narrative, the mystery of American poet Emily Dickinson.

The glamour and elegance of the Roaring Twenties were conveyed through dresses decked heavily in fringing, recollective of the decade’s flapper girls.

The majority of looks alluded to luxurious evening wear, streamline and slinky in silhouette, save for one outstanding design: a stunning strapless scarlet gown with a full, fringed skirt.

The faintest hint of utilitarianism was traceable in a khaki zip-up jacket and pencil skirt co-ord, yet it still remained in line with the theme of the collection, using luxe satin and ornate fringing.

The opulence of the collection’s first instalment was counteracted by the second’s offering of all-white ensembles – a reference to the myth surrounding the reclusive Dickinson and her penchant for the shade. A sheer organza shirt, trench jacket and slip dress (again, delicately steeped in fringing) alluded to a sensual nature, while tailored jackets and trousers signified strength and defiance.

All in all, Xu Zhi’s collection was a rich, feminine and nuanced visual narrative and study in depth, texture and form.

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Kimberley Archer