Saul Nash autumn/winter 2019 collection presentation for LFWM

Saul Nash’s Autumn/Winter 2019 menswear collection was perhaps substance over style, which invited spectators to take a closer look at the meaning behind the designs worn by the highly dynamic models (or, perhaps more accurately, performers).

Instead of a traditional catwalk show or typically stoic presentation, Nash’s offering veered way more towards performance art – which, in fact, can be traced back to him studying BA Performance Design at Central Saint Martins, and then pivoting into MA Menswear at the Royal College of Art.

Nash’s collection was made for movement and for ease. It combined a sense of tranquillity and self-awareness with the edge of urban streetwear. Nylon stretched and contracted against its form, while knitted compression pieces gave a dynamic natural contrast.

Hand-finished details such as rushed edges, ribbing, bonding and mesh linings made for an athletic function rather than decoration. Earthy taupes, organic saffron and chartreuse yellow complemented a subdued dove blue and off-white that lent a diffusing effect and an elemental clarity. 

The designer debuted multifunctional hats and scarves in nylon and denim, which could be worn in various ways. Again, the emphasis was on functionality. The overall stripped-back looks were a reminder of the importance of self-expression and movement.

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Kimberley Archer