Per Götesson autumn/winter 2019 collection catwalk show for LFWM

“I was thinking about what it means to come from a simple place to a big, complex city like London. It’s about dreams of travel, ships in a bottle, experimentation with new forms and learning about traditions,” said Per Götesson, reflecting on his Autumn/Winter 2019 collection.

In a celebration of artisanal making and craftsmanship, the designer showcased his signature expressive draping techniques, as well as a unique take on deconstruction. Relaxed silhouettes – as seen for instance in a double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer with crisp white cuffs peeking out from the sleeves – exercised both precise construction and soft tailoring.

From apricot to dusty lavender to dove white, Götesson’s colour palette was soft and gentle – refreshing, given the usual deep autumnal tones that other designers tend to opt for. This allowed a stronger focus on the unexpected design features: crew-neck jersey t-shirts either had an extended tail or fabric, or were cropped or twisted, exposing the body as though it was attempting to break free. The classic anatomy of the denim jean was warped; they turned inside out, showing a combination of different washes and unfinished edges, while another pair was joined with multiple seams twisting down the leg.

Animal print fur collars and handmuffs signalled an unusually bourgeois touch, but by this point, Götesson had declared the mentality that anything goes. A lesson in freedom of radical expression and garment design.

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Huw Jenkins