A.W.A.K.E MODE autumn/winter 2019 collection catwalk show for LFW

What started off as controlled, neutral and even somewhat understated unravelled into something more punk, more anarchical and more femme fatale as glossy black patent started to creep through in AWAKE MODE’s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection.

There was, at first, a sense of discipline in the grey wool coat worn over a matching crisp cotton top and longline skirt co-ord, or in the cream strappy slip dress signalling 90s runway minimalism. But shortly after, sartorial chaos began to ensue; seams and cuts were slashed and reconstructed to sit askew, on occasion with supersized safety pins, demonstrating Natalia Alaverdian’s ability to reimagine traditional garment construction. Electric purple trousers appeared to be worn back-to-front. There were exaggerated cowl necks with dramatic draping, and skirt slits that were worn with the intention of pleasing nobody but the wearer herself.

Semi-sheer, skin-tight ribbed jerseys in black, navy or ecru lent to the neutral tones in the collection, but overall the eclectic colour palette – featuring everything from caramel to scarlet red to cobalt and sky blue – signalled further freedom and non-conformity. Various textures, as seen in corduroy co-ords, aristocratic fur coats and PVC hotpants, made the designs all the more compelling.

Quilted jackets, of which connotations may usually include “middle-aged”, “rural” and “tired”, were reimagined and re-energised as something modern and fresh, thanks to coats which were quilted vertically to create tile-like squares. Crushed velvet, Elizabethan necklines and puffed sleeves brought a sense of regality to the collection, while the use of various brazen tartans was almost symbolic of Elizabeth I butting heads with Mary, Queen of Scots.

In this collection, the AWAKE MODE woman is a heroine with a story to tell, a provocative, perversive and persevering character full of sexual prowess. And she is the master of her own fate.

Isobel Bridgwood
Photos: Kimberley Larmouth