I-Am-Chen autumn/winter 2019 collection catwalk show for LFW

For their AW19 collection, Unclassifiable, which took place at the Freemasons’ Hall for its fifth season, I-Am-Chen pushed the boundaries of knitting, using advanced machinery techniques in the creation of eye-catching garments and creating contrast through explosive, metallic colours.

Continually aiming to blur the lines between fashion and art, for this collection the designer carried out in-depth research into the works of American abstract painter Agnes Martin in order to bring to life classic shapes, emphasising vibrant details.

One creation that captivated the public’s attention was a white crochet top featuring long sleeves with ruffled cuffs and ruffled elastic trim along the hem which was boldly complemented by an asymmetrical cream knee-length skirt and clear-heeled PVC ankle boots.

Known for loving the juxtaposition of simplicity and richness, with subtle but solid release of energy, Chen did not fail to impress the audience with bold, distinctive metallic tones of turquoise and aquamarine found in destroyed dresses, pencil skirts and bardot tops, embellished with neon yellow and orange-heeled boots and occasionally accompanied by an indigo earring, emphasising the designer’s minimalistic geometrics.

Despite the grandiose fitting of Chen’s figures on the body, her fabrics are knitted in one go, without an extra human touch, as the designer aims to keep the textures pristine, avoiding the interference of heavy handcraft, alike the artist Agnes Martin.

Inspired by the 20th-century artist, the Unclassifiable collection defies fashion’s concept-driven ideas and focuses on a fresh perspective free of fashion norms, where minimalistic concepts of creation were contrasted with intricate colour patterns that inspired a new perspective at London Fashion Week 19.

Xenia Gherzan
Photos: Amy Smith